Methods For Kitchen Cabinet Painting

If you’ve opted to go with the 1 ‘x 3’ lumber piece, now is where you’ll be using it (if you’ve opted to go with the U-shaped frame, it will come into play after all your lines have been set out). Screw a temporary 1 ‘x 3’ support rail onto the wall, aligning the rail’s top edge with the line at the bottom of the wall cabinets. Fasten it into the wall studs by inserting 3 or 4 two-inch screws through the board. Checkout original site for more info.

Now that we have labelled all of the lines, it’s time to start installing your kitchen cabinets. We’ll start with the corner cabinet (here’s where the extra set of hands from your helper’s will be needed). Place the corner cabinet on the temporary support column, and keep the corner cabinet in place for your helper. Drill the pilot holes into the wall studs and through the solid cabinet back or its support board. Using two screws to bolt the cabinet into the wall and are long enough to reach the studs by at least 1 1/2 inches. Test the cabinet top for point, and the cabinet front for plumb. If the angle needs to be changed, just back the screws out a little bit and top shims in the stud positions behind the cabinet. If it is plumb and level, drive the screws all the way in and add a couple more to each stud to ensure that the cabinet is tightly secured to the wall.

Now, on either side of the corner cabinet, we will move on to the cabinets. Use the clamps to secure each cabinet to the neighbouring cabinet as you install each, and then check it with your level for plumb. On face frame cabinets, drilling two 1/8-inch pilot holes through the front frame sides and using screws is a good idea. In this case, we will screw through the plywood sides with frameless, ready-to-assemble kitchen cabinets, use shims between the cabinets to ensure a close fit and make sure the cabinet faces are plumb.